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How to Install Tile on Drywall in a Bathroom
Remodeling Tips

How to Install Tile on Drywall in a Bathroom: A Step-by-Step Guide for Homeowners

Tiling is a favorite wall finish for bathrooms and kitchens across the U.S.—not just for its water resistance, but also for its durability and clean appearance. While traditional tile installations require cement backer board, drywall (particularly moisture-resistant drywall) is a faster, more affordable alternative for some non-wet areas. But should you tile directly on drywall? How do you do it the right way?

In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything: when it’s safe to tile on drywall, how to prepare your surface, which adhesive to use, and the actual steps to laying your tiles like a pro.

Can You Really Tile Over Drywall?

Yes, tiling on drywall is possible—under the right conditions. Drywall is made from a gypsum core encased in paper. While not inherently strong or water-resistant, moisture-resistant drywall, often referred to as "green board," has a special coating that helps repel water and makes it better suited for tiling in areas like bathroom walls—but not in wet zones like inside a shower.

However, tiling on drywall is only recommended once. If you remove the tiles later, it’s highly likely the drywall will be damaged in the process, making it unusable for a second tile installation.

Best cases for tiling on drywall include:

  • Quick wall remodels in dry to mildly humid spaces.

  • Installing tile where walls are uneven and need a quick leveling solution.

  • Adding insulation or hiding wiring/plumbing behind drywall before tiling.

  • Renovating with minimal dust or demolition mess.

What Kind of Drywall Should You Use?

Standard drywall is too absorbent and fragile for tile. Instead, use moisture-resistant drywall (usually green-colored). It is designed for high-humidity areas and is better at holding tile without degrading.

When installing drywall for tiling:

  • Always build a metal frame or stud system to attach the drywall.

  • Avoid wooden studs in high-moisture areas—they can warp over time.

  • Keep framing distances at no more than 16 inches (40 cm) apart to ensure structural support.

Choosing a Tile Layout

Before you start tiling, decide on your layout pattern. The two most common methods are horizontal and vertical layouts.

Horizontal Layout

This approach is common for bathroom and kitchen walls:

  • Start by laying a row of tiles on the floor against the wall.

  • If the last tile leaves a small gap at the edge, consider starting the row from the center of the wall instead of the corner. This creates a more balanced appearance.

  • For perfectly symmetrical rows, begin by placing the center tile and work your way outward in both directions.

Vertical Layout

This is ideal when you want height to be emphasized:

  • Measure from the top down to determine how many full tiles fit.

  • If the bottom tile must be trimmed, make sure it's at least half the tile’s height.

  • Cut tiles should go at the bottom, not the top, for a cleaner look.

Which Tile Adhesive Works Best?

Not all adhesives work on drywall. You need a tile adhesive specifically labeled for drywall applications. There are two main types:

1. Powdered Tile Adhesive

  • Comes as a dry mix—just add water.

  • Affordable but less flexible and slightly more brittle.

  • Ideal for small ceramic or light tiles.

  • Must be mixed according to manufacturer instructions for strength.

2. Pre-Mixed Adhesive (Mastic)

  • Ready to use, no mixing required.

  • Contains resins like polyurethane for enhanced flexibility.

  • Best for medium to large tiles, especially on drywall.

  • More expensive but stronger bonding.

Pro Tip: If you’re using heavy tiles like porcelain or stone, look for adhesives rated at at least 1 MPa shear strength—this ensures they won’t pull away from the wall over time.

Avoid using liquid nails unless it’s for very small decorative tiles. They’re too expensive and not designed for full wall coverage.

Preparing the Drywall Surface

Before tiling begins, your drywall must be properly prepped. This ensures tiles stick and stay in place for years.

Step-by-Step Prep:

  1. Joint Treatment

    • Shave the edges of drywall joints at a 45-degree angle (called beveling).

    • Apply joint compound, tape over seams with fiberglass mesh (serpyanka), and reapply compound. Sand once dry.

  2. Fix Imperfections

    • Patch any holes or dents using compound and sand flat.

  3. Priming

    • Use a primer made for drywall and tile adhesive bonding.

    • Apply two coats for best absorption resistance.

  4. Seal Pipe Openings

    • Around pipe or fixture holes, seal edges with silicone caulk to prevent moisture entry.

  5. Marking Guide Lines

    • Use a laser level or a chalk line to draw horizontal and vertical reference lines on the wall.

    • Start by establishing a "zero level" (your base level for the first row of full tiles).

    • Attach a temporary batten (wood or metal strip) along this line. It will hold the first row of tiles while adhesive dries.

How to Install Tiles on Drywall

Now that your surface is ready, you can start tiling.

Steps for Installing Tile:

  1. Find Your Starting Point

    • For symmetrical patterns, begin tiling from the center.

    • For traditional layouts, start at the corner.

  2. Apply Adhesive

    • Use a notched trowel to spread adhesive on the drywall or the back of the tile (depending on instructions).

    • Spread only as much adhesive as you can tile within 10–15 minutes to prevent drying out.

  3. Lay the Tiles

    • Press each tile firmly into place with a slight twisting motion.

    • Insert spacers between tiles to keep even grout lines.

  4. Pause After First Row

    • Allow the first row to set for 1–2 hours before building upward. This ensures your base is secure.

Repeat the process row by row until the wall is covered.

Sealing the Tile Joints

After the tiles are installed and the adhesive has dried (usually 24 hours), it’s time to grout and seal the joints.

Grouting:

  1. Remove all plastic spacers.

  2. Use a rubber float or plastic spatula to push grout diagonally into the joints.

  3. Wipe off excess grout with a damp sponge before it hardens.

  4. Let grout dry completely (per packaging instructions).

Waterproofing:

For extra protection, especially in bathrooms:

  • Apply a grout sealer or liquid waterproof membrane over the joints.

  • Re-seal grout every 1–2 years to prevent mold and moisture damage.

Final Tips

  • Don’t rush—tiling is precise work that rewards careful planning.

  • Always use moisture-resistant drywall in bathrooms.

  • Avoid heavy tiles if your drywall isn’t reinforced behind the scenes.

  • Use a ventilation fan in bathrooms to reduce moisture buildup over time.

In Summary

Tiling over drywall is a time-saving, budget-friendly option for many wall upgrades—if done properly. With the right prep, adhesive, layout, and sealing, your tile job can look flawless and last for years. Whether you’re remodeling a bathroom, kitchen backsplash, or laundry room, this guide has you covered.

Let your tiling journey begin!

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